Friday, September 25, 2009

High Hats and Arrowed Collars

After our experience at the Stratosphere, we were nervous. Our stay at the Bellagio was one of the biggest nights we had planned for the trip in terms of expenses, and we were hoping that it wouldn't feel like a waste afterwards. When we pulled up to the hotel, the atmosphere seemed immediately incomparable to that around the Stratosphere. Whereas last night we were secluded at the end of the road surrounded by empty parking lots and unmarked buildings, here we were at the heart of the famous strip surrounded by lush architecture and greenery. We opted out of valet parking and led ourselves into the parking deck. Since it was still relatively early in the day, we found a good spot right near the entrance and hastily pulled out our belongings.


Walking through the casino towards the hotel lobby, we were overwhelmed by the extravagant ambiance. This was nothing like the Stratosphere, full of desperate, depressing drunks. The Bellagio was glowing; the walls, the floors, even the people seemed bright and bathed in light (helped in no small part by a glass ceiling). Even though we were inside, we felt outside. Before reaching the lobby we reached the indoor gardens, a fantastical, botanical playground with leaping jets of water, hand-painted hot air balloons and a Ferris wheel. It felt like Willy Wonka and Simon Doonan had skipped through a field of flowers together, then fallen asleep and dreamed up decorations for the Bellagio courtyard. Intoxicated with color and innovation, we finally reached the lobby and looked up. Here we stood beneath Chihuly's stars, candy-colored glass blooms frothing from the canopy like a symphony of bubbles all popping in unison.




We walked up to the expansive marble counter to check-in, feebly attempting to act as if our surroundings were completely normal and that we belonged here. The person serving us brought up our reservation on the computer and then had to call "headquarters" for our room assignment (which is apparently not the job of the front desk). Instead of the already ritzy room we had booked online, the assignment office had cleared an upgrade for us, and we were handed the key to a room normally reserved for $500 a night! Thrilled, we listen to him explain the hotel's amenities and warn us that the refreshment center was weight-sensitive and would automatically charge our account for any items moved or removed during our stay.

Thanking the attendant, we found the gorgeous set of hallways where the expanse of elevators were located. Instead of every elevator serving all floors, there were sets of elevators assigned to each grouping of 5 floors. Our room was located on the 19th floor, so we hopped in an elevator earmarked for the 16th-20th floors and tried to hit the button. As the doors closed, our button still refused to light up and Adam suggested that maybe we should try scanning our keycard. Having never experienced a system like that before, I was sure that couldn't be the case; the only visible slot didn't seem large enough. After a trip up and down holding our belongings and looking sufficiently inexperienced, someone finally mentioned to us that we did in fact have to scan our key for the button to "unlock", and only then would we be able to get where we needed to go.

After dismounting on the 19th floor and finding our room in a hallway dark and plush with the elegance of low lighting and intricate wallpaper, I slid the keycard into the lock and opened the door to the room. For a moment, we weren't sure this could be correct. Before us was a living room larger than the one in my house and drastically sharper in taste and style. As we put our things down and started exploring the small suite, we took inventory. Bathrooms? THREE. Three bathrooms. My 4-bedroom house has three bathrooms! All three bathrooms were fully equipped too, toilets and sinks. One had a hot tub/jacuzzi, one had a marble shower/sauna, and the third was the "guest bathroom" in the living room. The curtains in both main rooms were dual-layered with heavy sheets of sheer and opaque silks, both of which were remote controlled and hid full, wall-size windows. Our view, in true Ocean's Eleven style, overlooked the famous Bellagio fountains and Las Vegas Boulevard. All the woods were dark and the upholstery was leather; the room was a harmonious dissertation in mahogany and glass with exotic botanical conclusions. We were in heaven.




Like any mature pair of adults, we soon ferreted through every drawer and closet in the suite, marveling over the soft, heavy bathrobes and subtle fragrances of the signature bath luxuries stocked plentifully in each room. Not content to leave any utility untouched, we settled on an agreed sequence of events. Before long Adam was running the jets of the jacuzzi while I unpacked. As he next hopped in the shower, I settled into the jacuzzi to relax until he was done. Then it was my turn and I took my time washing my hair after a sweltering day at the Hoover Dam. For a while, we relaxed in the room until my hair dried and finally decided we should start getting dressed up for our evening of excitement. This time, we were sure, we would not regret putting on the Ritz. In a dapper Theory number that Barney would approve of, Adam suited up and I put on a French Connection dress that paid homage to the "Cirque" theme of the hotel.

With about an hour to kill before our dinner reservation at the Bellagio's most prestigious French restaurant, we explored the swanky promenade of shops set apart from the casino. In contrast to the rundown mall at the Stratosphere, here we strolled passed Chanel, Dior, Hermes and Tiffany's, able to ogle but not to touch. Our only purchases were the usual souvenir magnets and postcards; we wanted to buy more logo-laden merchandise but they simply did not stock or make it. As we lingered in Tiffany's, having fun pretending that we might actually buy a $1,600 ring with an overly enthusiastic saleswoman, Adam realized that it was 7:23PM and our dinner reservation was in 7 minutes. Apologizing to the woman, we quickly exited and found Le Cirque where we were seated promptly in the opulent jewelbox known as their main dining room.


Lavishly decorated, the ceiling of Le Cirque hung heavy with swaths of silk in deep tones of ruby, olive, butternut squash and eggplant. We sat down, and the maitre d' quickly hurried over to us. "I notice," he said, "that you are wearing dark colors tonight. Shall I bring napkins more suitable to your outfits?" We looked down to the white napkins in our laps, looked up at each other, and (secretly flabbergasted), calmly concurred that darker napkins would be more agreeable. He scurried off and we grinned, excited to see how else this evening would tutor us in the distinctions between dining, and fine dining. He returned with our new, beautiful charcoal gray napkins and asked us what kind of water we would like this evening. Knowing that we would be perfectly content with tap water, we listened to him list 4 bottled waters, none of which I like. I gently mentioned that we did not really prefer any of those waters and he looked heartstricken, quickly racking his brains for a solution. "Would you prefer Aqua Panna?" This was one of few bottled waters that I could tolerate, and I cheerily told him so. "Perfect!" he said. "We don't actually stock it in this restaurant, but I will have a boy run next door and have it for you momentarily madam, thank you." He then politely excused himself to allow us to attend to our menus.


Giddy with the celebrity treatment, we scanned the menus and decided we were both up for the three course prix-fixe before the water boy appeared at our table with a bottle of Evian and started pouring it into my glass. At the exact moment that I began to open my mouth in protest, the maitre d' caught sight of the situation and with a look of horror, pulled the water boy aside. Like a true professional, he quietly but sternly explained the boy's mistake and asked him to correct it immediately. No longer than 12 seconds later, the boy returned with the correct water and apologizing, poured glasses for us. I was beginning to understand why the people I assisted at work had such jaded expectations of how they should be treated; if this was the service that money could buy it was no wonder they were spoiled rotten.

After ordering our drinks (iced tea and fruit juice to the waiters disappointment), the maitre d' brought out a tiny amuse-bouche in small shot glasses. He explained that it was a chilled cucumber soup, and it tasted like someone has distilled the essences of summer into a mint green nectar from the gods. To say the least, it was delicious and subtle, a beautiful introduction to the meal ahead. Finally we ordered, getting to pick three dishes a piece. For an appetizer, I chose hamachi delicately seasoned with Japanese citrus oil, and it was a soft, glorious burst of flavor that actually served its purpose in making me hungrier for my meal. Adam chose truffle-marinated shrimp over mashed potatoes. We unfortunately dove into our appetizers so quickly there was no opportunity to capture them for posterity. Having calmed ourselves for our main meals, we were both patient enough to wait for pictures before tucking in. For my entree, I chose a triple presentation of rabbit in a porcini mushroom foam; it was beautifully cooked and tasted almost like turkey but 30 times moister and more tasty. Adam selected a snow crab ravioli served on top of lobster with a coconut curry sauce that he was first hesitant about trying, but ended up loving.




The maitre d' teased that I would get a prize for finishing the rabbit; the serving appeared deceptively small but was a fight to finish. Even after my stomach was more than full, I continued eating it until the very last bite on the merits of taste alone. As a result, I opted for a lighter dessert in the Midori Melon Soup, a bowl of liquid honeydew with sliced and balled watermelon topped in a cantaloupe sorbet. The textures, colors, and flavor of this dessert lifted the entire weight of the meal from my stomach and left me feeling like I had somehow ingested a cool breeze. Adam's dessert was heavier, a perfect chocolate sphere filled with chocolate mousse and topped with 24K gold. Unfortunately I did not get to capture it before the waiter poured molten chocolate on its surface, instantly melting the entire sphere into a pool of deep brown liquid.


After we were finally done and full, the maitre d' held true to his promise and brought out my prize, a miniature, gilded set of drawers imprinted with the restaurants name in metallic red letters. Inside were two carefully dusted truffles that looked sinfully delicious. Along with this he brought a small plate of petite-fours, which we sampled while filling out the check. Thanking our servers for an incredible meal, we finally exited in the contented daze of a thoughtful, top-class meal. Deciding that I could no longer walk in the shoes that I decided to wear because the thick patent leather was carving slices into my feet, we went upstairs to get rid of our bags and let me change shoes. In the process of doing so we lost awareness of the time, and as we got ready to exit the room realized that the fountain show we were hoping to catch had begun outside our window. Foolishly, I suggested that we run down and try to see it in person instead of watching it from our window, but of course when we reached the first floor we were too late.

This created a dilemma; the next fountain show was not until 10PM and would last about 10 minutes. We had tickets to see the 10:30PM performance of Cirque du Soleil's "O" and were told to be seated at least 20 minutes in advance of showtime. If we were to see the fountain show, we might be late for the performance, since the theater was located inside the hotel about halfway through the casino. As we debated, we realized that even if we were late for seating, as long as we were ahead of the 10:30 showtime they would have to seat us. On top of that, we were in Las Vegas without a clue as to when we would return, so might as well do everything we can! Outside in the warm night air, we settled into a cozy corner of the wall that surrounds the fountains and waited until the show began. To save ourselves from trying breathlessly to convey its grandeur unsuccessfully, and also just to preserve it precisely, we recorded the entire performance for everyone to see.




The Famous Fountains


As soon as the last of the mist hit us in the face, we bolted past the crowds just beginning to peel themselves off the fountain wall and dashed inside to find the theater. Walking swiftly past all of the luxury retailers, we were at the theater doors before long in plenty of good time to find our (third row!) seats. To keep the audience entertained until showtime, two stylized clowns amused the audience with the style of physical humor that is unique to the Cirque ideology. Before long it was showtime, and the massive red silk that covered the stage billowed down in cascading waves of crimson before flying off stage at the insistance of a singular strand of rope. Now, for anyone who has not yet had the mindblowing honor of seeing a Cirque show (and even for those who have), I have absolutely no idea how to even approach beginning to explain the visual indulgence of Cirque's aesthetic.

As Cirque shows go, each one focuses on a different set of acrobatic skills all set in the lavish framework of dramatic storytelling paired with operatic vocal accompaniment. This particular performance, "O", focused on water. As a result, the entire stage shifted in and out of various depths of a large pool in which all performers of different acrobatic proficiences somehow managed to dive and swim through with no apparent necessity for a single breath (which the audience dutifully provided them by holding theirs). The show was impossible to absorb; at any given moment there were three or more equally paralyzing feats of acrobatic finesse and costume art worthy of a museum. Characters flew through the air in diligent denial of any gravitational forces whatsoever, each as glittering and fluid as the body of water beneath them. To explain the show any further will serve no educational purpose; in simplest terms the show was beautiful, incredible, and highly recommended to anyone whose interest would be piqued by the idea of watching a magician playing a grand piano while sinking into a still pool.

Since we were lucky enough to have chosen seats close to stage but on the one side that did not get hit by water during the course of the show, we were up for walking around the still-alive casino. Passing through the shops again, we came upon the Jean-Phillippe Patisserie. Here I hungrily peered into the glass facade vowing to return in the morning when it was open; the shelves were stocked with rich chocolates and decadent desserts. No less appetizing was the massive chocolate fountain in which thick streams of sweet liquid poured from leaves of glass floating in a suspended waterfall above the entrance. On the wall adjacent was a plaque commorating its status as the world's largest chocolate fountain, Guiness certified!



With a renewed hunger, we continued on to the courtyard. Where the glass ceiling had made this a magical field of flowers in the daytime, the hundreds of strategically placed lights turned the courtyard into a lavish carnival at night. We enjoyed walking under archways made by crystalline jets of water, seeing the sleeping birds in the indoor aviary, and absorbing the delicate intricacies of the glass sculptures now made apparent by the burning bulbs beneath them.



Completing our rounds, we finally agreed that we only had one remaining mission in Vegas: to gamble. Neither of us had ever done so before, and what better location to lose our first dollar? Adam was generally unenthused by the idea of gambling himself, so we settled on an acceptable loss limit of $22 and I set off to find a machine I could operate. Since I was not playing for big money, I decided the penny slots would be my best bet. Little did I know that these machines would be metal representations of all that is wrong in advertising. Words and pictures literally plagued the machines, their intent and information was all but indecipherable. Content to put in bills and hit buttons until something beeped and the numbers changed, I finally understood the mechanics of these mystery boxes when I was about $5 in. Suffice it to say, they were addictive!

Operating in a complete absense of necessary skill on my part, each machine I tried excitedly spun its way through hundreds of mindless button presses. I was a giddy rat in a Skinner box, hoping for a treat. Eventually I did bring home some bacon, to the hefty tune of $20 and 20 cents. True to the spirit of Vegas however, I again lost it all. Adam eventually did give in and bet $5, which he quickly lost in a couple minutes worth of play (compared to my two hours). All in all, I thought losing $1.80 for 2 hours worth of entertainment was a couple bucks well spent, and was lightyears away from the damage typically done in the city of sin. Tired yet exhuberantly positive about our indulgent night in the Bellagio, we returned to our room to pass out in the plush king-size bed.


The next morning, we packed up and stayed true to our commitment to return to the Jean Phillippe Patisserie. While Adam foolishly ordered a healthy breakfast sandwich, I ordered a rich slice of Nutella Napoleon (which is as exactly confoundingly delicious as it sounds) and loaded up my arms with a bottle of liquid chocolate, truffles, and chocolate bars. Literally as elated as a child in a candy store, I tucked into my sinfully sweet breakfast as we departed the Bellagio parking lot and told ourselves that we would definitely return to a city whose only true sin is perpetuating the idea that everything that happens here, should stay here.

{pri}

Monday, September 21, 2009

The Dam Daytrip

After a brief stop at a Carl's Jr. for what was technically brunch, we set off towards the famous Hoover Dam. The ride was uneventful aside from the strange phenomenon of traffic. Typically our drives were only impeded by construction, but metro areas always contained mild amounts of traffic. As we got closer to the Dam, the density of cars increased, but before too long a giant chasm could be discerned ahead telling us that we were close. Just before reaching the structure, we were waved into a small security checkpoint where I was instructed to open the roof top carrier. The guard glanced inside and waved us on. Merging back into the single file stream of cars, we drove slowly over the mass of concrete that powers Las Vegas. On the other side we were welcomed to Arizona by a small sign.

We parked and took a moment to view the back of the massive Dam. The color of the Colorado River on the upstream side of the dam is the most amazing blue-green color. Combined with the immense depth, I could easily imagine the river to be a slice of an ocean that was scooped up and transplanted into the desert by some magical being with a sense of irony. We marveled at the sight, noting that the water had once been even deeper as evidenced by a band of white bleached into the rock above the current water line. Not half a mile north of the dam, several boats sat on the glass still water, held back by a line of buoys. Half a mile downriver, high above the water and even above the level of the dam, the skeleton of a incomplete bridge spanned the canyon. This is a project I had read about before the trip, and will presumably offer an amazing view of the Dam. After a few minutes, the temperature eventually drove us back into the car. While chilly in comparison to Death Valley, it was still over 100 degrees in the sun.



We drove back into Nevada and parked at the visitor's center. Welcoming the air conditioning within, we perused the cheesy paraphernalia, purchased some water, and headed back out into the heat to see the Dam on foot. A monument erected to those who died while building the Dam stood just outside the visitor's center and caused us to pause for a minute. Two statues, of an ancient Egyptian flavor, flanked the standard flag and inscribed stone present at most memorials. I have no idea who chose the sculptures, for they do not fit the whole strictly American aesthetic pervasive in most of the west, but I'm glad they were commissioned because they were truly beautiful. We crossed the road and looked down the massive face of the Dam. I can't really fathom how much potential energy is stored by that gigantic wall in the Colorado River, but it felt like one of those quantities that's measured in number of atomic bombs instead of kilowatt hours.


We didn't have time or ambition to take a Dam tour, but having acquired our Dam postcards, Dam magnets, and Dam photos (c'mon you knew that was coming) we returned to the car. Pri had scandalously, though without incident, left her door unlocked. While I chided her about making sure her door was locked and that the car was basically our home on wheels, I discovered that I too had forgotten to lock my door. Somewhat put in my place by my own doing, we both had a laugh before quickly cranking the air conditioning and preparing for a speedy return to the Las Vegas. When we originally sat down to plan this trip we had decided to do one "nice" hotel and one cheaper one. It was immediately obvious to me what our "nice" hotel would be. With fond memories of Ocean's Eleven I programmed the Bellagio into the GPS, where we would hopefully have luck seeing the more glamorous side of Sin City.

[adam]

Welcome to Sin City?

About 1/3rd of out trip was spent in the giant state of California. We had seen the majestic coastal redwoods of the North, made some new friends at a lighthouse near San Francisco, explored mysterious things with old friends near Santa Cruz, watched the sun set over a beach-side waterfall, witnessed Yosemite burn, stood in the presence of the biggest tree on Earth, and survived the hottest place in the country. Finally, for the first time in eight days, we crossed a state border into Nevada. Our final attraction in California proved to be a good segue for the southwest. Though we never experienced anything quite as hot after Death Valley, it was clear we were now in a completely different ecosystem. One expansive desert, broken only by the occasional river or mountain range, spread out before us and would be our home for the next segment of our journey.

Our first sign of civilization en route to Las Vegas was the small city of Pahrump. It wasn’t in our nature to stop at the welcome signs for any of the strange towns we had thus-far driven through, but this was obviously an exception.
Pahrump is a city of about 20,000, and though we didn’t spend much time driving through, we did have to stop for ice cream. This indulgence was, of course, the first thing we figured we should eat after leaving the thermal anomaly of Death Valley. If you choose to do the same in your travels, may we suggest not visiting this particular ice-creamery, as it is governed by a rude troll. Perhaps she thought she was royalty due to her castle themed habitation. Either way, we continued on our way equipped with tasty weapons to battle the persistent, triple digit heat.
On we went, eventually merging onto I-15 North right into the heart of Las Vegas. We got our first view of the strip from here, basically paralleling the famous Las Vegas Blvd from the west. For some reason we failed to drive down the actual strip, and simply exited at the northern terminus arriving at the Stratosphere Hotel and Tower, which was to be our introduction to Las Vegas.


My original perception of the the Stratosphere was that the rooms were all in the vertical rise of the tower, and then the restaurant was at the top. I was mistaken. In reality it has two buildings, the hotel and the tower. The hotel is an uncreative block shaped thing that butts up to the bottom of the tower. From the hotel, you can take an elevator up to the top of the tower. There's nothing in the rise of the tower except the elevator. We quickly checked in to the hotel and headed up to our first real hotel room since Petaluma. Taking showers was high on our priority list. Pri won the coin toss and got to go first while I sorted through our stuff. Once we were both clean again, we suited up in preparation for our first night in Sin City. This was to culminate in dinner at the Top of the World restaurant in the top of the space needle.
We descended to the casino level where we were hit full in the face with cigarette smoke and jingling bells. It became quickly apparent that we stuck out like a sore thumb in our nice clothes. As a Las Vegas veteran might know, the Stratosphere is not the place to go for glamour and ambiance; it is the place people go to feed their paycheck into a slot machine in the fervent hope of wining it big. We more or less ran through the crowd of dull eyed drones towards an escalator bearing signs that promised "shops," a feature we assumed would be an improvement over the casino. In retrospect I guess it was an improvement, though not a significant one. By way of example, imagine a Jersey mall. Make it trashier. Now replace all of the nationalized chains with sketchy looking gift/convenience hybrid stores. Insert a bunch of drunk shady looking people, and you have the stores in the Stratosphere. We lingered in the less scary ones for as long as possible, acquiring our customary magnet and postcards. After a short while, we decided to go up the tower for our dinner reservation where were immediately seated at a table. The restaurant is two concentric circles. The one closer to the center of the tower is stationary and houses the kitchen. The outer part was the dining part, a disk that flushed up against the windows allowing the diners to see the city. The disk rotated imperceptibly slow (once every 90 minutes), but fast enough to make our brains go "hold the phone, something funny is going on around here" and thus we had mild motion sickness. This feeling was rapidly pushed from our attention, however, by the arrival of our singular waiter.

A middle aged man, somewhat portly, with slicked back hair arrived, his eyes darting around wildly as he talked at about the speed of light. Basically, imagine a guy who was raised in a nightclub. Because he was. His father owned one on... wait for it, Long Beach Island. He left us with our menus and, with difficulty, we focused our attention on deciding what to eat instead of staring out the windows. We both liked the sound of a particular salmon entree, and despite his uninvited advice to steer us clear of ordering the same thing in a "world class restaurant," we committed the classic faux pas. When the food came out, he was proven half right in his suggestion. The salmon was cooked poorly and drenched in oil which would cause us both stomachaches later that night. The only thing world class about the restaurant was the view. Stretching out before us in all directions were thousands of lights. They always write energy statistics about how long something could power Las Vegas, and I now understand why they do. We gazed out in all directions, the shades of electrified tungsten, mercury vapor, and other illuminants creating a completely different landscape than what we were used up to this point in the trip. We could look straight down and see the drastic contrast between the strip and the surrounding area. Empty lots were within a block of Las Vegas Blvd, and beyond those were shady one story buildings scattered about. This observation, along with what we had seen in the hotel earlier, highlighted that the oasis in the desert was really a mirage, as it was completely supported by decay, avarice, and lust. Despite this sad realization, I decided that I would pause my judgment on the city until the next day, when we would be staying at a much nicer hotel hopefully funded by tourists seeking entertainment rather than weak people gambling away their life's savings.


We continued to eat, with frequent visits from our waiter who became less annoying and more entertaining as the night went on. He would typically take a knee right night to my chair, so close that I could knock him over if I moved my arm, as he rambled on about everything from his friend's cell phone service to the time he went to Colorado. We concluded the dinner by walking up to the outside observation deck. Upon exiting the turnstile doors we were hit with a wall of hot dry air. Over the course of the day we had reaclimated to the comfort of air conditioning, so the 80 degree blast of atmosphere was quite a shock. But like they say, the dry heat is much better. We gazed out over the cityscape, trying to find landmark buildings.At some point we realized that the top of the tower was decorated with three rides for the adventurous hotel goer. One ride was the classic freefall, with the tower's spire serving as the vertical pole on which the ride ascended before rapidly descending. Another ride was a rotor, from which extended six or so arms adorned with chair harnesses at their ends. The chairs all faced the center and spun around the central axis of the ride with the goal of making you dizzy. Oh, yeah and also... it was suspended over the freaking abyss at the edge of the observation platform so if you rode it your feet were dangling close to 1000 feet above the ground. For the last ride, imagine a 100 foot excision of a small roller coaster (like the ones at the boardwalk) complete with two cars. Now keeping with the theme of these rides, imagine that short piece of rail anchored in the center to the disk of the observation platform so the line of the track is tangent to the circle of the tower. The ride would teeter on this pivoting point so the cars would precariously plummet towards the end of the track (below which was nothing) then catch at the last second on some kind of pneumatic brake. It would pause for a few seconds while the riders undoubtedly got a great view of the people walking around far far below. The track would then tilt backwards and repeat the same maneuver a few times before concluding the ride. We marveled at these rides for a while, also soaking in the lights of the city some more. We descended to the lower observation platform which was indoors. Here we found those penny crusher machines, which produce the classic souvenir we had been collecting wherever possible. Neither of us had change so we resolved to return in the morning and retired to our room. We stayed up writing posts until we passed out.

The next morning we packed everything up into the car, then returned to the tower for our penny. Somehow, we forgot change again. All of the change machines were broken, and the woman in the gift store said she couldn't open the register unless we bought something. So we purchased some chapstick, attacked the penny machine equipped with our change, and headed back down triumphantly. Piling back into the car, we decided to kill the remaining time until our 3PM check-in at the next hotel by taking a daytrip to the Hoover Dam.


[adam]

Lucifer's Playpen

Here are some facts about Death Valley, according to Wikipedia. Death Valley is the lowest, driest, and hottest location in North America. It holds the record for the highest reliably recorded temperature in the Western Hemisphere at 134°F, and the average annual precipitation totals about 1.58 inches. You might wonder why then anyone (especially someone with a propensity for hating heat and tanning) would venture into such a wasteland. This is a fair question, and let this picture be the answer.

A large, flat plain in Death Valley National Park is known as the Racetrack Playa, and is famous for what are called "sailing stones". These stones, as pictured above, move like slugs across the landscape over the course of 3-4 years, gouging paths in the dry mud behind them. Conflicting theories offer explanations as to why exactly they shift and slide; their rate is too slow to record actual movement. They are the photographic darlings of the park, and we were so intent on witnessing these mysterious trails and collecting our own set of eerie pictures that we were willing to brave the promise of the scorching valley heat.

We made our first stop at the Eastern Sierra Interagency Visitor's Center and were handed the standard newspaper and pamphlet outlining the park's features, notices, and maps. At Adam's casual mention of the Racetrack, the ranger asked what kind of car we were driving and recommended against trying to visit the stones. Unwilling to let her deter our spirit of adventure however, we decided to ignore her suggestion. As I began sorting through our new papers and making sure the route we had planned to the Racetrack was correct, Adam started heading towards Stovepipe Wells so that we could fuel up and get some ice for our completely melted cooler. After a bit of map comparison, I started to get concerned when I realized that the only path to the Racetrack was marked as a "4-Wheel ONLY Road" on the park map (ranking higher on the warning list than the "Low Clearance" roads). We had already learned at Yosemite that just because a road shows up on the GPS doesn't mean it's a traversable route, and Adam's ground-skimming Civic loaded with extra weight hardly qualified as a high-clearance vehicle.



Torn about how to resolve this dilemma, Adam decided that he would ask the entrance station for advice once we reached Stovepipe. We figured that they know the roads better than anyone, and they could indicate whether or not the warnings were really as severe as they seemed. The temperature continued to climb around us as we drove deeper into the Valley and we began to understand that the decision was not to be made as lightly as we had anticipated. Out here at sea level, in the middle of nowhere, the sun felt dictatorially oppressive; even with the air conditioning on the temperature barely felt pleasantly warm at full blast and I could feel my skin tanning despite efforts to keep myself in the shade of the car, my hat, and my SPF shirt.

Eventually we reached Stovepipe Wells and Adam went in to buy ice as the car sat getting refueled. When he came out, we worked to pour the quickly dissolving cubes into our cooler while he explained that we still needed to get our entrance pass from another building. With the car set and ready to go, we headed a few blocks down to get our pass. This time when Adam came out, he had bad news. When asked about the road conditions leading to the Racetrack, the ranger responded without even stopping to inquire as to what kind of car Adam was driving. His response was immediate and unconditional; he strongly urged us not to attempt it. Emergency situations were more acceptable in winter months, he explained, because help would come if our car became disabled. In heat such as this however, a breakdown would potentially enter us into a life-threatening situation in which help might not arrive quickly enough. Unsure of just how much we had already taxed the car beyond its abilities and knowing we had low clearance and front-wheel drive, we agreed to abandon the plan. Devastated at the loss of the sailing stones from our itinerary, we tried to regroup and figure out what to do next. We looked at the map and decided instead to head for Artist's Drive, a beautiful road through hills of naturally tinted dirt, and Badwater, the United States' lowest elevation point.

Disappointed in our sacrifice, we began the trip to Artist's Drive which would take us on a 9-mile loop road through the desert and put us back on track for Badwater. With nothing to do but try and stay cool, we started to enjoy the rollercoaster of roads that rose and dipped over the dry land. Soon however, we started seeing signs encouraging us to turn off the air conditioning in efforts to prevent overheated vehicles. We were intrigued by the signs, having never seen any like them before, but did not take them very seriously and continued to cling to the cool air for comfort. Before long we were astonished to see Adam's temperature gauge rising quickly and threateningly. Shocked at a sight neither of us had ever encountered before, we quickly turned off the air conditioning and glued our eyes to the dashboard, desperately crossing our fingers that the needle would creep back down to its safe and proper location. After about 5 minutes, it finally returned to normal and we realized that safety precautions in a place like this were the result of legitimate risk and not the overprotective paranoid tendencies that we're used to. When there are tanks of water stationed every couple miles to offer an emergency coolant for your radiator, there is probably a formidable reason. Unable to sit completely sans air conditioning for longer than 5 minutes, we danced a carefully alternating tango with the engine's heat gauge all the way to Artist's Drive.

Though not as viscerally arresting as the sailing stones, Artist's Drive did not provoke regret at our change of plans. The hills resembled piles of colored powder, embellished dust in dark pastel hints ranging from caramel to violet, with roses, whites, maroon and Tiffany blue mixed in. Itching to preserve these miraculously unpolluted pigments, we took turns hopping out of the car and frantically collecting vial samples before our skins crawled with calidity. Before long we had a small spectrum carefully preserved in our miniature glass prison, full of every color that we could reach without considerable effort. Unfortunately the energetic colors refuse to hold captive in print, fogged by a hazy sunlight that has somehow failed to bleach and rob them of their identities. Regardless, we were content with our samples and headed to Badwater, where the temperature again defied our challenged notion that it could not possibly get any hotter.



A sign indicating sea level on the hill, 282 feet above where we stood.

Getting out of the car at Badwater, we were confounded to see what was surely an unusually persuasive mirage; there was a small pool of water before us. Between the torrefying air and tyrannical temperature, water was an inexplicable sight. Certainly there was either a continuous source or the heat had taken its final effects and we had lost all sanity. Soon enough we read that the pool was indeed spring-fed, and were equally astonished to learn about creatures able to thrive in these conditions (the ground we stood on was nothing more than an expansive salt flat). The water would be dangerously saline to anyone foolish enough to attempt drinking it, and full of (visible!) larvae. After exploring the perimeter of the pool, some small round mini-springs, and the sparkly, parched earth for a couple minutes I started to feel faint from the heat and headed back to the car. My legs and arms reeled from the touch of a sun that felt like it was 4 feet away from me. Adam seemed to fare slightly better, but even he could not last more than a couple minutes beyond what I had. We got back in the car and started to exit Death Valley.



On the way out, we saw a couple formations with caves visible from the road. They appeared to be dwellings, but we were not sure whether or not they were currently in use. Since we were not allowed to go near them I debate if they might belong to the Shoshone tribe that lives in the area. Either way, they were an unexpected treat and served as our farewell from the park.




Right outside Death Valley we stopped to pick up some souvenirs. I don't know how well you can see this in the picture, but above the door to the small shop was a thermometer. Here we were 1. in the shade (5-10° cooler) after 2. exiting the valley (another 5-10° cooler), and the needle was still resting comfortably above the 100°F line. We never got a chance to figure out exactly what peak temperature we experienced during our visit, but from these indications alone I would wager we sat in a furnace of about 112° to 118°F. Out of the hell-ditch we continued on our odyssey of opposites, away from the inferno in the valley to the cool, towering metal spire of the Stratosphere Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas.


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